Port Royal: My Favourite Place in the World
Where the past meets the present, the food warms the soul, and romance is written into every sunset.
There’s a quiet kind of magic about Port Royal, the storied fishing village tucked into the southeastern corner of Jamaica. Once known as the “wickedest city on Earth,” today it’s a peaceful, sea-swept haven that holds my heart like no other place in the world.
I’ve wandered many places, but there’s something singular about Port Royal’s rhythm. The waves whisper the past while carrying the scent of fried fish and sea salt. It’s a place where time folds in on itself, where pirates once roamed and now families gather over food, laughter, and memory.
If food is the gateway to culture, then Port Royal serves it up in abundance, especially if you’re a seafood lover. There's a hidden gem of a restaurant right by the shore where you can feast on grilled lobster, escoveitch fish, buttered shrimp, or steamed crab, all paired with Jamaica’s most beloved sides: bammy, festival, roasted breadfruit, and fried plantain.
The town’s street food scene is equally vibrant. Stalls and carts offer up fried or steamed fish straight from the fire, spicy jerk pork and chicken, hearty conch soup, and sometimes even the rare delight of sugarcane wine. Vendors call out cheerfully, often enticing passersby, especially men, to try fresh oysters. More often than not, you’ll hear someone explaining that oysters are believed to boost male virility. It’s all part of the charm: playful, bold, and unmistakably Jamaican.
One of my favourite things to do is head down to the waterfront in the evening, where you can buy freshly caught fish straight off the boat and watch as Kingston Harbour glows under the night sky. The breeze is salty and warm, and children can be seen dipping and diving in the cool, clear waters, their laughter echoing across the shoreline.
Couples stroll hand in hand, sharing quiet moments and sipping from bottles of Red Stripe beer, soaking in the romance of the sea. All the while, the pulsating rhythm of reggae music drifts through the air from nearby bars and homes, giving the town a heartbeat you can feel in your chest.
By day, Port Royal invites exploration. Visit the famously tilted Giddy House, a remnant of the 1907 earthquake that literally defies balance. Wander through Old Fort Charles with its weathered cannons and ocean breeze. And don’t miss the Port Royal Museum, a fascinating deep dive into the city’s pirate past and maritime legacy.
Then there’s the old St Peter's Anglican Church, a beautifully preserved landmark that stands with quiet dignity amid the salt and wind. Its wooden pews and sun-dappled stained glass hold the stories of centuries: resilience, devotion, and time itself.
In 2023, I had the joy of returning with my extended in-laws for a weekend outing. We stayed at the Grand Hotel Excelsior Port Royal, a place that some may call dated, but for us, it was perfect. The rooms were clean and cool, the menu surprisingly varied and satisfying, the cocktails tropical and strong, and the pool was a hit with the kids. Best of all, the bar overlooks the sea. Watching the sun slip beneath the horizon with a drink in hand, music in the background, and family close by is a memory I hold close.
Most recently, Port Royal was officially designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site. This long-overdue recognition highlights its cultural and historical importance. For those of us who have long loved its narrow streets, warm-hearted people, and sea-salt spirit, the announcement felt like the world had finally caught up.
Port Royal is more than just a place. It’s a feeling. A living museum. A fisherman’s dream. A food lover’s paradise. A storyteller’s backdrop. And for me, it’s home, in the deepest sense of the word.
If you ever find yourself in Jamaica, don’t miss the quiet wonder that is Port Royal. Just go. Walk the streets. Taste the sea. Listen to the music. Let it show you who it really is.
By Dianne Dunchie-Coley
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